CSI: Durban

Wentworth used to be a warzone, at least according to a worker at St. Monica’s. She recalls growing up to the sounds of gunshots and fist fights, and the times when supper would be interrupted by gang members busting through the door to hide behind their furniture. Every street had its own gang, and simply by playing outside, children were exposed to drugs and violence at a very young age. Thirty years later, the area certainly appears to have changed. The nine of us spend most of our time in Wentworth, but no one has had a first-hand interaction with any drug dealers or gang members. Yet when I’m driving around with my host family, they often point out streets or neighborhoods, saying “watch out for this place”, or “this is a popular gang hangout”, or “don’t walk through this area at night”. I also hear about the many “distant relative of a friend” folks with drug problems or domestic abuse charges.

Another hot topic is the number of foreigners in Durban. In recent years, many people have emigrated from countries like Zimbabwe, in search of jobs. But because the unemployment rate in South Africa is so high (close to 40%), immigrants have a difficult time finding jobs. This forces them to set up camps under the bridges leading up to the city center and to make a living through theft. I’ve heard many horror stories of people stopped at robots (South African lingo for traffic light) with windows rolled down who’ve had their phones, purses, insurance papers, etc. ripped from their fingers. Some immigrants, and South Africans as well, resort to begging at street corners in the city center. Surprisingly, locals tend to treat them rather aggressively. If a beggar limps barefoot toward the car (or stumbles drunkenly) with an outstretched hand, they will be shooed away or yelled at.

Street crime is a big problem here, as is government corruption. I’ve encountered a few people who’ve courageously stated that the current South African democracy is worse that the apartheid government, because of a lack of accountability. If you flip through the daily Durban newspaper, there are countless articles about elected officials being arrested, a misuse of tax money, or some other parliament fiasco.

Don’t get me wrong (parents), this trip has been absolutely wonderful. A bird’s eye view of Durban showcases the magnificent Moses Mabhida Soccer Stadium, a huge port, and beautiful beaches. But beneath the shiny surface lies a fragile and growing city. As a tourist, you might easily be distracted by the gloss. I’m grateful that we have a more immersive experience, because as we live and work in this area, we get to dig a bit deeper and see Durban from more than one perspective.